Insertion - the design idea "Big Shoulders"

On the way to my final Jacket design I sticked at the Idea of Oversizing. First I looked at some kinds of "Big Shoulders" types by different designers.

1. pic - "Big Shoulders" by Zara
2. pic - Martin Magiela
4. pic - Antonio Berardi, Frida Giannini, Donatella Versace
5. pic - Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Maison Martin Margiela, Karen Walker
6. pic - Burberry Prorsum, Derek Lam, Emporio Armani, Roksanda Inincic

4th Week Class Exercise (Set in Sleeve & Shoulder Pad)

This Week we learned, how to attach a Set In Sleeve and the Shoulderpad.

On these Pictures you can see my self-sewed Set-In Sleeve.
On the first picture you can also see, that the sleeve makes a little curve to the front, which imitates the natural shape of an arm, course even when the arms falling straight down, they are doing a little curve to the front.

The first pic is without the shoulderpad. You can see how softer the Sleeve falls included the shoulderpad like in the following pictures.









On these pictures you can also see, how the Shoulder pad is attached to the main fabric, also with a kind of herringbone stitches.













This last Image shows Mick by attaching the shoulder pad to the Sleeve and the Shoulder.







And every time I am just supposed to think again " OH my Gosh how much work belongs to such a Jacket!!! "




The typically definition of a shoulder pad:

Shoulder pads are a type of fabric-covered padding used in men's and women's clothing to give the wearer the illusion of having broader, and less sloping shoulders.

In men's styles, shoulder pads are often used in suits, jackets and overcoats, usually sewn at the top of the shoulder and fastened between the lining and the outer fabric layer.

In women's clothing, their inclusion depends on the fashions of the day. Their use is particularly associated with clothing of the early 1940s and the 1980s.

Photograph of Elsa Schiaparelli wearing a "Napoleon" hat and shocking pink jacket of her own design

I am also interested, to use the Shoulder pads for my finally design - in a way of oversizing them.

Insertion - Thinking about the Tailored Jacket

A Mind Map of Tailored Jacket




And my technical Report











































































































What is the technical Report?

An illustrated document that demonstrates your understanding of what a tailored jacket is in terms of materials and construction. Thoroughly interrogate and document the physical attributes of one tailored jacket including your thoughts on “how and why” specific materials, techniques and features have beenused. The report is to be presented as a thoughtfully designed document both visually and structurally.

The technical Report helped me a lot to understand how a tailored jacket is constructed and why !!!

Third Week Class Exercise (Welt- and Jet Pocket)

This week we learned how to sew a Welt- and a Jet Pocket.

The first picture shows a Jet- Pocket, the second a Welt- Pocket

I just marked the ends of the Welt-Pocket with pins, where I can do the hand- or machine- stitches for attempting the Welt on the Jacket. If the collar not covers the Welt- Pocket, its normal to use hand stitching, depends on which design you want to get.

My pockets I think are not such a good example for these pockets, but I think I am getting better by practising it. Also I figured out, that it depends most on the way you're cutting the edges or corners before ironing.









For Homework we've got to do a variation of one of the Pokets, or an internally stitched Patch Poket. My Variation depended more to the Poket Bag, which i gaved the shape of a Hand - I liked the Idea, that you can put youre hole hand into the Poket - but I think it becomes a little bit tricky to get something back what you have done into this bag.

These are the the instructions, for the internally stitched Pocket - you can't see any seams.

With kind regards to my course mates !!!

Insertion - the Interlining and how to attach

This picture shows an axample of some layers of the interlining of a tailored Jacket.

We've got tought some different ways of hand stitching. On this pictures Mick is showing how to attach the interlining on the Main fabric with a herringbone stitch.







All this have shown me another time how many hours of work are needed for a tailored Jacket!!!

The second week Class Exercise (Tailored Shawl Collar)

On the second week we learned, how to sew and to draft a Shawl collar with a hip pocket and without side-seams.

On this pictures you can see the instructions and my own pattern of a shawl collar. The positive aspects of this pattern is, that the pocket hides the end of the front seems and you can transfer the breast dart also into the pocket to cover it. What we have also done in this pattern is, that we joined the front- and backside panels together, so we have no side seems.

All of these aspects were pretty good for thinking about different pattern-designs, and hiding panels and seems. But i have to be honest, if you haven't done it a few times before and you're not concentrated enough, you can make such a lot of little mistakes by constructing the pattern, that you become crazy, when you finally see that nothing fits together.
So am I and so the pattern turned out like a tricky puzzle game. But at the end, when everything fits together, its so amazing easier to sew it than a notched collar.

All of that showed me another time, how more work you spend into the pattern and cutting the fabric, most of the time the sewing will becomes easier!

These pictures show what came out of my puzzle-pattern. On the last picture you can see the space for the pocket and the side-panels without side seam. I used to variate not to much, and to try to follow the advises as mutch as possible, so i can figure out how it works the best.

Tailoring Studio semester 2, 2009

This is my research blog about the tailoring studio project ‘Tensions’

The following weeks I will try to use this blog for documenting my ideas and thoughts about its various aspects, including my technical exercises and the experimental variations of these.

The first week Class Exercise

was about how to draft and to sew a Tailoring Jacket with a notched collar.

On the first picture you can see the pattern instructions.

The second picture shows you a part of my self-made pattern (left side the original - right side the variation).

On these two pictures you can see my first own produced half toile which is more a good try than a good example for a notched Collar. It was quite difficult for me to find out how it goes with the tricky corners and these things.

To follow all Instructions the right way was not easy for me cause I had to think about too many different things at the same time.

Learning and understanding everything in an other language was a big challenge for me and I am very happy that whenever my course mates had time they helped me to cope with it.

On the left you can see my original
and on the right side the variation of it.

I've made the collar a little bit wider, I 've also dropped the first button a little bit more down and I changed the darts on the back to a sort of a princes line.